Moo Shu Chicken Wrap

Method

1. Cover the dried wood ear with boiling water and leave it ten minutes. Brittle black chips come back as something with the bounce of a mushroom cap, at three or four times the volume they went in at.
2. Cut the thigh meat into slivers about as thick as a pencil, keeping the knife almost flat so each piece holds its length, then work the white pepper in with your fingers.
3. Beat the eggs until yolk and white read as one colour, shred the napa across the leaf into ribbons, chop the spring onion into thumb lengths and keep the green tops in a pile of their own, then cut the ginger into matchsticks.
4. Drain the swollen wood ear, pinch out the hard knot where each piece grew onto its log, and cut what is left into strips.
5. Take the neutral oil to a shimmer in the wok. Thigh renders plenty of its own fat, but a tablespoon is what stops two eggs welding themselves to the metal later on. Spread the slivers out, leave them alone for a moment, then keep them travelling until no pink is left anywhere in the pile.
6. In go the wood ear, the napa, the ginger and the spring onion whites, everything moving hard, until the cabbage has slackened at its edges but still squeaks against the teeth.
7. While the wok is working, give the low-carb tortilla a minute on each face in a bare skillet. Floppy is what you want, not crisp — a crisp one splits along the fold.
8. Push everything to one side and pour the beaten egg into the space you have cleared. Let it sit untouched until the underside sets, then chop through it with the spatula edge so it breaks into soft gold flags and folds back through the chicken.
9. Off the flame, in goes the soy and the sesame oil, and the whole lot turns over twice. Sesame oil scorches over a live burner and tastes of nothing afterwards, so it belongs here or nowhere.
10. Smear the hoisin along the centre line of the warm tortilla, run the filling over it, drop the reserved green tops along the length, then turn the two ends in and roll the parcel away from you.
11. One cut on the diagonal, then eat it while the egg is still tender rather than squeaky.