Risotto alla Milanese

About Risotto alla Milanese

Risotto alla Milanese is the golden saffron risotto of Milan, one of the most emblematic dishes of Lombardy and traditionally colored and perfumed by saffron threads steeped in the cooking stock. It is a study in elegant simplicity: Carnaroli rice, onion, white wine, good stock, butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano, with saffron as the defining ingredient that turns it deep yellow and lends its faintly honeyed, floral aroma. The flavor is rich and savory with that unmistakable saffron perfume, and the texture is where the dish lives, creamy and loose enough to spread into a gentle wave on the plate. In Milan it is the classic partner to osso buco, though it stands beautifully on its own.

This version follows the proper method that gives risotto its character. The saffron is bloomed directly in the warm stock so its color and scent infuse every grain, the rice is toasted until its edges turn translucent before the wine goes in, and the hot stock is added a ladle at a time, each absorbed before the next, until the rice is creamy and al dente after about eighteen minutes. The final flourish is the mantecatura, beating in cold butter and parmesan off the heat until the risotto turns glossy and emulsified. Spreading it on a warm plate so it settles into a wave, rather than mounding it, is the traditional way to serve it, and it should be eaten immediately while it is still flowing.