Griddled Monkfish Wrap with Cabbage Salad

Method

1. Monkfish arrives inside a grey membrane that tightens like a rubber band the instant it meets heat and pulls the flesh into a knot behind it. Work a fingernail under one edge and peel the whole sheet away, then cut the tail meat into cubes the size of a walnut. Roll the cubes in dried oregano and leave the surface dry. Nothing wet goes on them yet: acid before the pan stops fish colouring and starts it cooking where it stands.
2. Cut a wedge off the cabbage, trim the hard core out of it and shred the leaf as fine as your patience allows — this salad is only worth eating when it is cut thin. Grate the carrot coarsely over it, squeeze half the lemon on and work it through with your fingers, parsley and all, until the shreds go slack enough to lie flat instead of springing apart.
3. Brush the ridges of a griddle pan with the olive oil, bring it up over a high flame until the oil begins to haze, and press the monkfish cubes down across the bars. Seven minutes in all, a quarter turn every couple of minutes, and they are ready when the middle of a cube has gone from glassy to solid white.
4. While the fish is on the griddle, lay the low-carb tortilla flat on a dry pan at the next burner over the lowest flame, a minute a face. Heat has to reach the middle of it, not just brown the outside: warm through, it bends around a filling; warm only on its faces, it splits along the fold.
5. Run a broad band of the cabbage salad along the warm tortilla, keeping it well back from the rim, and set the monkfish over it while the cubes are still steaming. Bring the near edge up, tuck it under the filling and roll away from yourself in one movement.
6. Leave it seam-down long enough to hold its own shape, cut it across on a slant, then squeeze what is left of the lemon straight into the two cut ends.